The Grand Tour of Maremma is more than just a simple route. It's an immersion in a profound land, so rich in diversity that you might think you're pedaling through an entire region, when in fact it's just a slice of the cycling paradise that is Tuscany. Those who have ridden it say that the 366 kilometers that correspond to its standard version (though infinite variations can be developed on this basis, up to doubling its length) represent many of the founding reasons for Tuscany's prestige around the world, its beauty , and its ability to tantalize all the senses.
The wind pushing towards Castiglione
Grosseto, the capital, is just the starting and finishing point, without taking anything away from a city that's still worth a visit, especially its historic center. From there, you head towards the sea on the bike path that leads to Castiglione della Pescaia, and when tackling it, you also have to consider the wind . An obstacle? Not always; it can also be that breeze that pushes you forward and makes you almost want to embrace it...
Castiglione Castle is a bastion that greets all who arrive and almost invites you to stop, perhaps for a refreshing coffee before climbing to Punta Ala, a historic hub for many outdoor sports, or heading towards Scarlino, discovering panoramic views that are sure to be captured in a photo. From here, among other things, begins one of the most popular cycling excursions from the original route, the one that passes through the Tombolo pine forest to Marina di Grosseto . This completely flat route, pedaling amid the scent of resin and salt air, is where many local cyclists, especially the younger ones, train to improve their performance.
A square that is worth the effort to reach
The route then turns inland and enters the Zona del Ferro. There's a climb to be made; the ascent to Massa Marittima often leads to encounters with cyclists in training because the slopes are sore on the legs; those who tackle them on e-bikes thank the wonders of technique. Upon arrival, however, there's a reward for all the effort: one of the most beautiful medieval squares in Italy, where time seems to have stood still . Piazza Duomo has an almost sacred quality, shattered by the sound of shoe cleats on the pavement. Locals say this is the balcony of the Maremma, and perhaps they're right. Especially when, on clear days, the outline of Elba Island appears in the distance...
Maremma is also, or rather, above all, Etruscan land par excellence, and many cycling routes incorporate the vestiges and memories of the pre-Roman population. Pitigliano is almost astonishing when the silhouette of this village appears from afar, as it seems to spring directly from the rock . We are in the land of tuff, and this is perhaps the most mystical part of the entire route, especially when pedaling through the Vie Cave, almost like canyons carved into the rock that offer refreshment even on the hottest days, enjoying the silence filled with subtle whispers. Entering the village has something symbolic about crossing the bridge that overlooks the valley.
When the stone has so much to say…
From Pitigliano, you can travel just 8 kilometers to Sorano, a village dominated by the Orsini Fortress, through a fun up-and-down route that also includes the Masso Leopoldino. This panoramic viewpoint offers a view of the entire valley below and even glimpses of the caves carved into the tuff that were once inhabited, so much so that Sorano is called the "Matera of Tuscany."
And speaking of cool, there's also its equivalent, perhaps experienced among the thermal waters of Saturnia, soaking in the Cascate del Mulino waterfalls. It's no surprise that so many people set aside their bikes (always within sight, though) for a refreshing dip to recharge their muscles and then perhaps sample some local delicacies , starting with Maremma tortelli, the size of your palm, to be savored in small bites, or the classic acquacotta. All washed down with a Morellino di Scansano. But don't overdo it, otherwise who'd pedal anymore?
A journey through the five senses
The final section is a true immersion in nature, in the WWF oasis of Orbetello with various animal species in their natural habitat, passing through the Feniglia dune, a flat dirt road with stone pines that block the sun's rays, or through the Uccellina Park, remaining amazed by the long horns of the Maremma cows.
Is that all? No, because as mentioned at the beginning, the Grand Tour of Maremma stimulates all the senses, including the sense of smell, savoring the salty sea air of the coast that gives way to the strong scents of the woods, or the sight that takes in the changing light, from the intense light of the wheat fields to the light that splits the trees in the woods. It's the gift of a territory waiting to be discovered, which, not surprisingly, now attracts cyclists from all over the world.
